On 5/28/2024 at 10:55 PM, windsorbill06 said:
Call Cass Hudson 800-423-1511. When I bought mine I sent them pictures and they were very helpful getting me the exact replacements.
Ride Hight Valve
DonflemI just wanted to give a shout out to Jessie at M&M coach specialist in Victorville CA. I broke down in Winslow AZ. The ride height valve he just replaced a couple months ago broke the shop I went to in Winslow told me it would be Tuesday before they could help it’s a holiday weekend so I called M&M for the part number talked to Jessie he asked me were I was at? I told him he said I will be there tomorrow 😳🤷🏼♂️👊. I can’t tell you how grateful I was that he was willing to drive over 6 hours to come get me going so I could make my grandson’s graduation 👨🎓l asked him why he gave up his weekend for mine he said mine was more important kids only graduate once🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏. I can’t tell you how humble I am what a great man. I just wanted to share that with you guys.
Don
Slide roller adjustment drivers side bedroom - 2008 Executive.
Tom Cherry25 minutes ago, Daryl Ammons said:
Thank you so much, Bill, for the information. After a lot of phone calls time searching was able to find the roller at Cass Hudson.
My thanks to all of you who responded to this thread about my slide issues. I was able to get to the roller, get it removed, and find a replacement because of all of the help you guys offered. Monacoers.org is such a blessing to novices like myself.
I appreciate you all!
Daryl A
I am still learning so much about these beast but someday maybe I will be able to pass it along and help someone.
Darryl,
Thanks to you, as well as Bill. YES...we learn.
Please PM @Frank McElroywith the complete information on the vendor (phone, website, etc) as well as the PN you ordered. He will put that into the next update of the Part's list. Good Luck...
UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
SteveDI paid my fee and received a letter saying CARB had a dmv hold on my rig. Had to register in the clean truck check program and pay $30 fee; then fight with dmv to release my tags. Finally got them.
next step this fall is annual smoke test which trucking fleets have been doing for years. No big deal just a snap idle test with an opacity meter.
I’ve been managing trucking fleets for the past thirty years and since the smoke test came along I’ve never had a truck fail.
Driver’s side side switch panel
DJR1SRI have used Custom Instrument Panels, as suggested by Ivan and they do very nice work. I sent them my old panel and the replacement panel they returned was a direct fit.
Carefree of Colorado Patio Awning SP 1726 Service Manual
diplomat donWhen I bought our 2001 Diplomat in 2012 the strap on the rear arm was broken. Even at that time no luck in finding a strap. I was able to buy correct strapping, had my wife sew 2 and replaced both. Front and rear straps follow same route in arms so put rear on first then front. Being 12 years ago I can't remember how it was routed but you should be able to see the rear when fully extended and replicate. Memory not so good anymore but motor turns the tube so I think the rear would close up evenly when someone ran the switch and other person helped push the rear arm. Sorry can't be more help but wish you luck. Don
Ride Hight Valve
bobdinsmoreThe goodness of people. Need a ton more of this these days. Thanks for sharing.
UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
windsorbill06These posts have been very informative. Thanks everyone for staying 'straight and level'.
The only suggestion I can make to improve it, is to tell us what month your registration is/was due. I have a friend in Orange County, and he received his tags without any issue and was not registered with CARB. His registration renewed in February. I'm not due until November.
It seems like March/April/May is when DMV 'drew the line in the sand', so to speak, and started rejecting registrations for CARB compliance.
2005 Camelot - Need back side pictures of dash gauges
Tom CherryDave,
You are not, unfortunately, getting a lot of response. That is regrettable....but here goes...I spent some time this morning.
The Gauge you have, if you google the PN is listed on SummitRV Parts (Ebay). NO INFO...just a NEW ONE. DEAD END? Maybe? But you might contact the seller and get information on the vendor.
At this point, again, you need to shoot a picture of the back of your gages and find the vendor...However, I kept digging.
Here is a drawing from a 2006 Diplomat (Monaco was "standardizing" like mad)...and it should help you.
Blow it up. There are FOUR connections on the gauge. The two center nuts are the "MOUNTS" and are NOT electrical contacts.
The spade Lug on the top, next to the LIGHT is the SAME lead that goes to the others. It is the DASH Gauge Bulb. So, find a one on another gauge...and it will work. I don't know exactly, what the issue is...but this will work for BOTH...
The S Terminal on the LEFT is the SIGNAL from the Oil Pressure Sensor.. NOW, if that has been "cut or destroyed", then a lot of toning and tracing will be needed.
The "I" or the RIGHT terminal is Ignition.... or the 12 VDC. The Oil Pressure sensor sends back a "regulated" ground signal....thus, with positive on the RIGHT, then the gauge will read correcly...
The Voltmeter is a bit of a "quandary" for me. We have folks that know more about the gauge and such... However, if you follow the wiring...there is NO "S" signal. There is a wire that goes back to a plug and it is labeled as VOLTMETER. That MIGHT be the infamous "Alt-Fail" wire that drives everyone crazy.
Hopefully SOME will chime in.
That's it...
Good Luck...
Carefree of Colorado Patio Awning SP 1726 Service Manual
jacwjamesI have three different manuals/guides but I don't think they show how the strap is attached or routed. Best beat would be to look at the other side. I know that there is a clamping type block on the strapping that is used to adjust tension, you take it apart with allen wrench and pull the strapping tight and then tighten the block back. I've had to adjust mine a couple times.
From your photo it looks like the block may have let the strapping slip through. Loosen the block and then you will have to physically push the awning out until strap tightens and then tighten the block back.
FWIW
We've had our coach for 15 years, the very first long trip we took we were parked at the Perry Fairgrounds and I was drinking coffee in the AM at the table and a big gust of wind came and the awning billowed, slapped back down and it wouldn't close, it bent one of the arms. Spend a day with large C-clamps and blocking and metal angle straightening it out. Got it to work but have to keep it well lubricated.
As a result we seldom use and never leave out if we are not there especially in any type of wind.
I had a continual problem with the awning not wanting to open/close with the switch. There is a small bayonet twist lock connector on the side of my coach that supplied power to the motor. This is a water tight connector. I could take it apart, clean it a little and put it back and within a short time it would act up again. Care Free of Colorado did not sell new ones, I asked what they did and they said they hard wire the awning and just seal the cable with caulk. So I removed the connector and drilled out the guts large enough to be able to feed wire but connectors through it. I had to improvise the a compression type seal on the outer portion. Did this ~9 years ago and have not had another problem with the switch not working.
Carefree patio awning one touch.pdf Carefree-One-Touch-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf One Touch Awning.pdf
2008 Dynasty Stafford IV: How to safely access back of 10KW Onan and Hard Starting Solution
Tom CherryFrank and I discussed offline this morning. Here is the print of the 2008 Dynasty. That is also what was commonly (NOW Monaco never was consistent) in how they did things....but generally speaking, after reading and doing a lot of research on this, MOST of the posters with Genny Starting (off Chassis) issues, per THEIR individual prints, DID have the infamous #2 AWG cabling. A FIASCO.
I did my own analysis....using some data that folks had posted after doing some clamp on AMP measuring and such. Frank, as usual, is absolutely correct. It DOES take a WELL CHARGED Chassis Battery to start the Genny... BUT, the voltage drop due to the #2 AWG cable is also, when the Chassis might not be at peak, in my opinion...the culprit...
It is ALSO the easiest to fix. Folks have run AUX batteries....many did a GREAT JOB. The MAJORITY of them ran a 2/0 Cable from the up front Battery and rave about how it works. OK....since there is also a 4/0 cable providing the Chassis Power... my theory... Put in a 2/0 cable. YES, one can run a 4/0. Is that OVERKILL? I don't know and we have, me included, folks of the MINDSET...
if X is better and will do the job....then, BY GOD....I'm going to solve this forever...and use 2X. SO....that is a debate that can rage.
Assuming all the ground connections on the Banks in the rear (stud grounds) and the upfront ones (to the Genny) are clean and good...then I would start off with 2/0 NEW cables to the Genny from the existing Ground stud and the 4/0 Stud. BUT...as they say... Knock yourself out and go with 4/0...if that is your mindset... LOL...
Jonathan....you can run the calculations...but you will get (memory) at least 75% MORE (based on my guestimated length) current from a 2/0 than a #2 AWG). Again...long time ago, but it was easy to use the online calculator and see the max current.... if you publish the results...then we will all have the numbers...
BUT.. I think that most would benefit from the 2/0... NOW, caveat. Live in a colder climate or your Chassis are not top drawer. Certainly a 4/0 will do the trick. After all, it starts that big puppy in the rear.
Hope this explains the logic and why the reason is simply a cabling goof.. WORKS OK...as long as in mild climates and GREAT starting chassis...but change one...and then problems may (OK HAVE) occurred...
Let us know what you decide to do and how it works.
38070173 High Current Low Voltage 2008 Dynasty Print.pdf
UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
CraigMac30 minutes ago, windsorbill06 said:
These posts have been very informative. Thanks everyone for staying 'straight and level'.
The only suggestion I can make to improve it, is to tell us what month your registration is/was due. I have a friend in Orange County, and he received his tags without any issue and was not registered with CARB. His registration renewed in February. I'm not due until November.
It seems like March/April/May is when DMV 'drew the line in the sand', so to speak, and started rejecting registrations for CARB compliance.
Mine was due end of April and I didn’t need to deal with CARB.
Driver’s side side switch panel
diplomat donnwrvsuppy.com used to have side panels and dashes for some models. On my first coach 2001 Diplomat both side panel and dash was very badly cracked. I made mine out of wood, used cherry to match the interior and made individual panels instead of one piece. They should have been done this way originally, in my opinion, so you didn't have to remove whole panel to get behind one section. I was extremely happy with the end result, as it looked really good and no more cracks. I made mine out or real cherry, about 1/4" thick with some reinforcing behind but would have been less work to use 1/8" veneer and just paint edges black. Natural finish and looked far better than any original plastic panels even the ones with the burl finishes and much stronger. Good project for those that do and enjoy woodwork. I mean isn't the real woodwork in the original Monaco coaches one of the great reasons we like them so much. Just my opinion. Don
Close call !
dl_racing427I wonder how many fingers are included in those filters. LOL 😱🤣
Close call !
RoadTripper2084The problem with filter purchases is that you have no way of knowing the actual quality of the media without destroying the filter. So you are required to buy trusted brand names to the best of your ability and hope they haven't "cost-controlled" out their quality recently in a way that negates their historical track record.
Any random knock-off might be just fine, but you have no way to know if the one you buy today is as good as the one you bought yesterday.
how bad is the rotor?
HockeydieselCaliper, Haldex 790-94049, JIT truck parts, $1328, free shipping. Pads, Haldex 790-22012, JIT truck parts, $192, free shipping. Front Rotors, Centric 120.86007, Find it Parts, $287, free shipping. Rear Rotor, Webb 26741XM7T, Iron Wing Sales, $349, free shipping. Adjustment Shaft Kit, Haldex 790-94892, about $9. Caliper fits all four positions. These parts fit on a 2005 Monaco Signature. Caliper weighs about 90#, be careful. Mike S.
Desk and Dinette
Daryl AmmonsIs that couch you have for sale a sleeper sofa or a jack knife?
2005 Camelot - Need back side pictures of dash gauges
BenjaminLike Tom said, the I is ignition wire, it will be looped to all the other gauges also. The L is light and will be looped to all the other gauges L terminals. And the sensor goes to the sensor on the engine, you can connect that to ground and the gauge should go to "full/high" showing the gauge is working, and zero with the sensor terminal disconnected. The light will need a ground, so I'll guess that the silver nut is where you hook the ground, but check the other gauges like water temp to see what the ground is hooked to. On my Safari, the 12V grounds are WHITE! which takes me a while to wrap my head around. Just saying that the colors from one motorhome to another could be meaningless, but you can trace the wires from the other gauges.
The voltmeter shouldn't need a sensor, it just reads the I terminal voltage and grounds through the same ground as the light. It looks like the "alt charge" warning light under the turn signal arrow in that diagram, and goes to the "alt fail" wire, could still be the same basic alternator warning light that's been around since alternators took over from generators and amp meters. If that's the case, then that light must light up with the ignition on but before starting the engine, or the alternator won't charge on some alternators, it's also not totally reliable, the light can function but still not come on when the alternator fails, it measures the alternator excite current, not output volts like the volt gauge. Being a 2005, it's possible that the alt charge light is computer controlled and none of this applies...
2005 Camelot - Need back side pictures of dash gauges
Tom CherrySee AlsoLaughlin ➡️ VictorvilleThe Republican from Springfield, MassachusettsThe Republican from Springfield, MassachusettsHow Do Heat Pumps Work? | AC Plus37 minutes ago, Benjamin said:
Like Tom said, the I is ignition wire, it will be looped to all the other gauges also. The L is light and will be looped to all the other gauges L terminals. And the sensor goes to the sensor on the engine, you can connect that to ground and the gauge should go to "full/high" showing the gauge is working, and zero with the sensor terminal disconnected. The light will need a ground, so I'll guess that the silver nut is where you hook the ground, but check the other gauges like water temp to see what the ground is hooked to. On my Safari, the 12V grounds are WHITE! which takes me a while to wrap my head around. Just saying that the colors from one motorhome to another could be meaningless, but you can trace the wires from the other gauges.
The voltmeter shouldn't need a sensor, it just reads the I terminal voltage and grounds through the same ground as the light. It looks like the "alt charge" warning light under the turn signal arrow in that diagram, and goes to the "alt fail" wire, could still be the same basic alternator warning light that's been around since alternators took over from generators and amp meters. If that's the case, then that light must light up with the ignition on but before starting the engine, or the alternator won't charge on some alternators, it's also not totally reliable, the light can function but still not come on when the alternator fails, it measures the alternator excite current, not output volts like the volt gauge. Being a 2005, it's possible that the alt charge light is computer controlled and none of this applies...
Benjamin is probably correct. Forgot that the ALT-FAIL is a warning light. Therefore, any IGNITION ON wire, that is reading the Charging Voltage should work. Suspect that the OTHER side of the gauge is going to GROUND....since it is NOT hooked up.
I also looked at a 2001 Dynasty that had the ENTIRE main wiring harness from front to rear. There is NOT a single wire marked "VOLTMETER". All the other usual suspects are there....such as the Oil Pressure wire. SO...Ignition on the VOLTMETER is probably the correct hookup...
Would be worth a try... I would actually HOOK it up. The Ground for the "Gauge" Light is probably connected. SO, LOOK at the Gauge, See the Tab from the light (black plastic). Where does it go. Probably to the one of the BACK Mounting Studs... my GUESS...the one on the RIGHT. Use your VOM. Check that. Then, take a 2 amp inline fused lead from an ignition source...put in on the I terminal below.
BINGO....or maybe VIOLA? If the Gauge reads Volts... Then that is IT
NOW remember, that you also need the GROUND wire, from somewhere, on the Oil as well as PROBABLY the same terminal as the Volts.
Good Luck... Let us know.
how bad is the rotor?
HockeydieselHere is the info. from the tag on my front axle. Spicer / Monaco 01806914 / Dana part # C 14628N2021 / Model # E-1462 W . This info. matches exactly what John C has posted in his pictures. Parts should fit at least 2005 thru 2007 S series chassis. I hope this helps someone. Mike S.
2005 Imperial left front slide
JetjockeyI adjusted mine so the slide stops without putting too much pressure on the slide flange. You could put some grease on the bolts head to see how it seats. You could also measure the length on the other slide bolt. I think it is more of an adjustment to fit your particular situation. Making sure it closes square from end to the other. Good luck .
how bad is the rotor?
96 EVO3 minutes ago, Hockeydiesel said:
Here is the info. from the tag on my front axle. Spicer / Monaco 01806914 / Dana part # C 14628N2021 / Model # E-1462 W . This info. matches exactly what John C has posted in his pictures. Parts should fit at least 2005 thru 2007 S series chassis. I hope this helps someone. Mike S.
Same axle on our '08 RR10S chassis!
Entry Door Will Not Open - Top Latch is not releasing
c210pa18It is all back together adjusted and can not get it to fail again. It is worn and parts are loose so needs to be replaced I'll get one ordered. I left a bit of the ear on so it does lock and draw in a bit but not super secure on the top latch. Will see how it is going down the road. I have about 900 miles to where we will be for several weeks. Now on to another issue to figure out.
generator cuts off
Ingram Ranchhow do you get around to that on the menu. i have a screen that keeps coming up that says 0.2 hours to run. i cannot change it or delete it.
generator cuts off
Tom Cherry34 minutes ago, Ingram Ranch said:
how do you get around to that on the menu. i have a screen that keeps coming up that says 0.2 hours to run. i cannot change it or delete it.
might want to call Onan Tech Support and get them on the phone. Let them walk you through it. Magnum does this all the time on their inverters and the Onan Tech Support, last time....a few years ago, was great... Let us know...
Penguin 2 gaskets
georgecederholmWhen I replaced our original units with Penguin 2 models, I bought the Dometic drain kit, which had the second gasket included at the time. When I compared the Dometic gasket to the Camco version, I immediately bought 3 more Dometic gaskets. Fit and alignment was perfect. I followed the Dometic instructions and applied the top gasket to the bottom of the A/C unit, then the second gasket directly to the first. Monaco had put the adhesive side of the bottom gasket to the roof, so I had a mess of the old gasket to clean up, which won’t happen again. Of course, someone at Monaco had dropped a bead of silicone along the outside of one gasket, probably to stop a leak, because it was easier than snugging up the bolts from the inside. Now, I just snug them up when cleaning the filters once a year. No leaks.
generator cuts off
Ivan K1 hour ago, Ingram Ranch said:
how do you get around to that on the menu. i have a screen that keeps coming up that says 0.2 hours to run. i cannot change it or delete it.
You did not say if you have any blink codes. If you do, it is an Onan issue. To look at the AGS settings, press and hold UP and DOWN arrows until a beep. Scroll down to Generator Stop. If set to anything other than Manual, change it with Righ arrow. This will disable automatic stop.
generator cuts off
Tom Cherry@Frank McElroy
Is this in the files? Maybe used wrong search. This is the older RC7 remote
Thanks
Entry Door Will Not Open - Top Latch is not releasing
timaz996Good news! I got locked out of my rig in 2018 because the electric solenoid would not unlock the door. I only use the dead bolt to lock it now.
Alternator Issue - 2003 Windsor 40DST, ISL 370
malcollWife and I are on a trip and traveling down to highway we had to slow down...engine RPM drops below 1300ish and the Alt Warning buzzer starts going crazy and Allison transmission pops in and out of 6th gear, I look down and Guage says 10v.....I speed up, once I get over 1300ish RPM buzzer stops and all seems normal with transmission except Guage still reads 10v....house volts is 14.38v...I do have generator running to run house A/C.
Any ideas...think I need an alternator? I'm hesitant to shut the engine down that it won't restart.
Thoughts?
Alternator Issue - 2003 Windsor 40DST, ISL 370
waterskier_1Turn off the generator and see if the issue resolves.
- Rick N
Time for New Tires
zmotorsportsOn 5/29/2024 at 8:16 AM, Chargerman said:
Hey Mike,
Just wondering if you’ve been out on a trip with the Toyo’s and if so what are your thoughts on them?
I have put 1700 miles on them now between two trips. During one of those trips, I drove what is probably the absolute worst section of road that I have ever been on, Highway 89 between Page, AZ and Flagstaff, AZ in a pretty horrific crosswind and they did fine.
If I'm being honest, I really can't tell a difference in ride or handling between them and the Michelin XZA2 Energy's that I replaced them with. I am pleased with the Toyo M144's thus far.
Air bag stuck
Ivan KThis certainly is an interesting problem, from your description. Maybe more than one. It could be a controller issue but I would not jump to that yet. Assuming the rear ride hight worked while none of the front sides did? In Travel Mode, the only common point for both fronts is the ride hight valve and its rod. Next, each side has its own solenoid valve, both would have to fail, unlikely. Are they getting power from controller? Maybe, maybe not, can't tell.
As far as the leveling, all ride hight valves are out of the picture so there is something else going on but I can't tell from the description. Being seemingly random makes it harder to pinpoint. Bad connections are a possibility.
Alternator Issue - 2003 Windsor 40DST, ISL 370
malcollHmmmm interesting ..it popped up to just under 12v, then dropped back to just above 10v....and kinda fluctuating up and down. If I turn on headlights Guage drops to just above 10v....running about 1700 rpm right now...
Ride Hight Valve
tmw188That is the best RV break down story ever!!😁
Alternator Issue - 2003 Windsor 40DST, ISL 370
malcollI have a solar system too, and when I bought the coach over two years ago the PO told me sometime the ALT CHARGE light would go on with buzzer but turn on headlights and it will stop....it has happened randomly over the years but lately a bit more often and at those time the alt gage would read around 14v.......more recently I get this random low Guage reading...I'm thinking my alternator is going out.....what alternator do I buy to replace it?
Alternator Issue - 2003 Windsor 40DST, ISL 370
jacwjamesYou alternator may be bad.
Mine failed in ~2012, I pulled it off and had it rebuilt, cost ~$185 at the time.
Alternator Issue - 2003 Windsor 40DST, ISL 370
Dr4FilmSounds like your alternator is or has failed. Do NOT drive with headlights on.
Use a 6 gauge jumper on your Battery Isolator Relay to jump both House and Chassis Battery Banks together and run your generator to keep the chassis battery above 11 VDC. Below that your Allison with shut down or go wacky.
generator cuts off
PduggsDoes it surge before shut down? Mine did and I replaced the actuator, which fixed the problem.
Front curtain motor
stuff4sale09Not sure but maybe this company can help
Alternator Issue - 2003 Windsor 40DST, ISL 370
malcollI think my system charges house and chassis batteries?
Alternator Issue - 2003 Windsor 40DST, ISL 370
Just JimI second the idea of taking the old off and getting it rebuilt. These things have some crazy systems on them that can create more problems. I bought mine a read ago and that was the first thing I did was have the alternator rebuilt. I was fortunate that the alternator shop was very familiar with it and he upgraded it from 200 amps to 320.
generator cuts off
Frank McElroy1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:
@Frank McElroy
Is this in the files? Maybe used wrong search. This is the older RC7 remote
Thanks
That file was uploaded 4 years ago.
Alternator Issue - 2003 Windsor 40DST, ISL 370
jacwjames11 minutes ago, malcoll said:
I think my system charges house and chassis batteries?
Not sure on your system, it may charge both sets of batteries, my 2002 does/did.
But with mine it relied on a Lambert 415 maintainer to maintain the chassis batteries. The Lambert would trickle charge the chassis battery when plugged in or on generator but I don't think it could keep up with amp requirements while driving.
I was having trouble with my charging system and decided to upgrade to a Bluesea MLACR latching relay.
Alternator Issue - 2003 Windsor 40DST, ISL 370
BenjaminLots of things that could be happening. I'd want to leave it running, and go check the voltage at the chassis battery terminals, if that's less than 13, then check the voltages on all the terminals on the back of the alternator. Everything else is guessing.
Close call !
dennis.mcdonaughOn 5/28/2024 at 8:51 PM, 96 EVO said:
I'll run genuine Donaldson, or Baldwin, but, I'm not running a Chinese made filter made to fool buyers into thinking it's a Fleetguard!
Sounds like you think only Fleetguard gets counterfeited. Just because it says Donaldson or Baldwin, doesn't mean its a real Donaldson or Baldwin. I bought a Parker filter on-line, but when I got it, the logo didn't look exactly like the one on the filter I was replacing and it turns out it wasn't a real Parker. You have to be alert no matter what brand you're buying.
Front Film Removal
VenturerOn 5/28/2024 at 6:25 PM, windsorbill06 said:
I'll be curious to see how much of the rapid remover you use/need for the front of the coach. I see it in 32 oz and gallon sizes.
I just did another section. The glue comes off so easy with the RR that it doesn't take much product to clear off the residue. On one section next to the right mirror, the glue came off with the film leaving the surface shiny black. On the tan part of the generator rollout, most of the adhesive stayed on the surface, but the RR took it off with ease. I think my 32 oz bottle will do the whole thing. If not, there will be very little used out of a second bottle. The key is to let the heat gun soften the film and then patiently work the plastic blade across taking a 1" strip off. The heat and distance from the paint is the key. Too close and too hot and you peal the paint off too. Too far away and the film wont peal. I have 2 spots to touch up with black. My motivation is that when it's done, it will look near new. Plus, I won't have spent more than $50 on the project.
Penguin 2 gaskets
jacwjamesOne thing I'd recommend is to take the time to do a duct inspection. I bought a remote camera with long cable, mounted on a flexible pole and inspected the duct work front to back. Glad I did.
I found mouse holes at both ends and a large one near the front AC. The duct work actually extended beyond the front and rear ceiling ducts, so I just cut some pieces of styrofoam at a 45 degree angle and positioned them right at the edge of the ceiling opening and then used foil tape to secure and seal them in place. I think this actually helped with air flow as the air is pushed down/out instead of to a dead end duct. The largest mouse hole was right at one of the ceiling lights which I was able to remove and fix the hole.
But I also had one of the duct joints that was never sealed at the factory, about a 1/2" gap on 3 sides. To fix this I cut an opening the same size as the other duct holes and used the opening to access the joint and used foil tape to seal it.
Doing the above helped a lot, not loosing condition air into the ceiling was wasting a lot of BTU's.
The other thing I found was that the rear AC had been removed at one point and the slip joint was never resealed correctly, meaning cold/heated air was just pushed out into the air return. What a waste.
I did a bunch of research on how to replace the AC's and on thing that wasn't shown very well was how to handle the slip joint that connects the AC to the Duct work. So here's what I did
When I installed the new AC's I removed the slip joint from the old AC and cleaned it up so that I could move it. Attached it back to the new AC. I cut a hole in the duct work from below to access the existing hole where the slip joint would mate to the duct work. This way I could position the AC to center the slip joint, and then moved the slip joint so it was the protruding down into the duct. I then tightened down the AC using the 4 long bolts. Once I got it where it needed to be I then pushed the slip joint back up to contact the top of the duct work and then seal it all with foil tape. After I tested the AC's I used foil tape to seal back the access hole that I cut to work on the slip joint.
Deadbolt
birdshill123Locksmiths are like vacuum cleaner repair guys. As these techs get old they close the shops. We had an awesome lock shop. Had at least 3 guys in the shop and 3 or 4 on the road. Gone
Lots of mobile guys. In Canada Kwikset is Weiser.
Alternator Issue - 2003 Windsor 40DST, ISL 370
malcollWelp.....stopped for fuel and the alternator bottomed out....couldn't engage the transmission.....a truck repair shop around the cornering helped us limp over to their shop and the will replace the alternator in the morning.....so tonight is boondocking night running genny!
Air operated step cover.
4rickyg05 H R Navigator. The air operated step cover has been operating intermittently for a while. Finally decided not to open anymore. I removed the rocker switch in the passenger side armrest. There is 14 V to the red wire labeled step cover 1. I use the jump wire over to step Cover 2 nothing, and then step cover 3 and nothing happened.
Started to look around under the second step where all the hydraulic valve for the slides are.Did not see anything for the step cover. Trying to figure out where to look from here?
As always appreciate the help from this group..
Driver’s side side switch panel
Paul J AHere is another source.Alternator Issue - 2003 Windsor 40DST, ISL 370
Dr4FilmGood luck at the shop. Hopefully they will know the intricacies of the Leece-Neville Alternator and not just throw any Alternator on your engine. The right way is to have it rebuilt with genuine LN parts, all parts not just the failed ones.
I would have opted for running your coach with the jumper and using the generator until you were able to get to a shop that can do the right job.
I have driven hundreds of miles that way when we were on our way to Alaska. Eventually had the alternator rebuilt in Anchorage AK.
Alternator Issue - 2003 Windsor 40DST, ISL 370
Frank BergamoMake sure you keep your old one. Have it rebuilt and keep for a spare.
If I was a coolant fiter, where would I be hiding?
Paul J A22 hours ago, 3pedal said:
Not sure about the pulleys, but changing belts, hoses, fan and overflow.
IF you have a Belt tension pulley, too.
Need new slideout awning fabric
Paul J Ahow bad is the rotor?
John C6 hours ago, Hockeydiesel said:
Here is the info. from the tag on my front axle. Spicer / Monaco 01806914 / Dana part # C 14628N2021 / Model # E-1462 W . This info. matches exactly what John C has posted in his pictures. Parts should fit at least 2005 thru 2007 S series chassis. I hope this helps someone. Mike S.
Thanks.
My tag is Dana D22AU601A134. looks like they changed the Axles even for the same chassis
7 hours ago, Hockeydiesel said:
Caliper, Haldex 790-94049, JIT truck parts, $1328, free shipping. Pads, Haldex 790-22012, JIT truck parts, $192, free shipping. Front Rotors, Centric 120.86007, Find it Parts, $287, free shipping. Rear Rotor, Webb 26741XM7T, Iron Wing Sales, $349, free shipping. Adjustment Shaft Kit, Haldex 790-94892, about $9. Caliper fits all four positions. These parts fit on a 2005 Monaco Signature. Caliper weighs about 90#, be careful. Mike S.
Never thought about to change Caliper, I am going to change the rotor and brake pad, when do you decide to change Caliper?
On 5/29/2024 at 4:06 PM, Ivan K said:
You may have seen this link with PNs, either way the numbers should be verified for your calipers. The same people who gave you the rotor number should have told you the pads numbers too.
Need Kwikee Step parts - 2003 Dynasty.
Paul J AOn 5/28/2024 at 4:07 PM, wamcneil said:
Ok. I’ll make sure the mechanism is working right!
Apply Boeshield T 9 Liberally to the "entire" step assembly . Great product and does not attract/retain dirt, etc like WD 40 does. Exposed linkage loves it!!!
Belt-line repair on '97 Dynasty; which rivets should I use?
Paul J AAluminum stretches under load.
Need Kwikee Step parts - 2003 Dynasty.
wamcneilWell, I ordered a used gearbox and motor assy off eBay. Looks very similar.
Fingers crossed that it will work as replacement !
Air operated step cover.
Ivan KI would expect a two way Mac valve with flow adjustment screws. Ours is mounted in direct view left of the generator, will have 3 lines going to it.
Tank sensor fuse
KensterDoes anyone know where the tank sensor fuse is on an 06 Diplomat PDQ
I'm unable to edit my post. I have lost power to the tank sensor panel in the wet Bay only. The upstairs panel works fine. Any idea where the fuse is for the tank sensor panel located in the wet Bay
how bad is the rotor?
Benjamin41 minutes ago, John C said:
Never thought about to change Caliper, I am going to change the rotor and brake pad, when do you decide to change Caliper?
You'll have to back off the caliper to change the pads. Make sure everything moves freely. Some have lubrication directions. There are a few youtube videos of haldex air disc calipers. I've never touched one, so that's where I'd look.
If the pads are worn parallel then I'd say the caliper is in good shape. The two pads don't have to be even with the one on the other side, that's rare. Just make sure they're not obviously dragging one edge more. Those surface checking cracks are caused by the opposite of a dragging caliper, so not a likely issue on these.
how bad is the rotor?
John C4 minutes ago, Benjamin said:
You'll have to back off the caliper to change the pads. Make sure everything moves freely. Some have lubrication directions. There are a few youtube videos of haldex air disc calipers. I've never touched one, so that's where I'd look.
If the pads are worn parallel then I'd say the caliper is in good shape. The two pads don't have to be even with the one on the other side, that's rare. Just make sure they're not obviously dragging one edge more. Those surface checking cracks are caused by the opposite of a dragging caliper, so not a likely issue on these.
Got it .
Thanks!
When I picked the coach from AZ, I accidentally hit a button on the left side of the driver seat, that automatically braked when I released my foot from gas pedal, I drove about 200 miles this way before I called the dealer and found out the button.
Could that the reason caused the big crack on the rotor?
how bad is the rotor?
96 EVOFound the button, was the parking brake?
Air operated step cover.
jacwjamesMine is also mounted on the firewall above the generator. Here's a picture of it
1 Step Cover Solenoid.pdf
how bad is the rotor?
Ivan KYour picture of the crack is on steer axle, right? The switch you are mentioning is a Jake switch? That would not be a cause of your crack.
Air operated step cover.
4rickygThank you we'll check into that tomorrow.
Close call !
Gary ColeIt doesn't appear that the metal which they are using has been coated to prevent corrosion. You can also see that there is no real seal between the filter element and the cups which hold it. That is exactly the problem I had with a counterfeit fuel filter some years ago. The inside of the filter rusted severely and the filter element, which was little more than a soggy piece of paper, did not prevent the rust particles from passing thru to my six carburetor motorcycle.
Tank sensor fuse
klcdenverI do not think it is a fuse. It is probably a connection, ground or the panel itself burned out. I think it is the same one as inside so try swapping them to see what happens.
generator cuts off
Ingram Ranchthanks for all the help. i think it is gonna be ok now.
Tank sensor fuse
KensterThe 12 volt connection to the panel in the bay was hot, and I may have shorted it out. Now it is not hot. I'm guessing there has to be a fuse somewhere. Thank you for your reply
Deadbolt
TomV48On 5/18/2024 at 4:20 AM, birdshill123 said:
I am not a locksmith. Here is what Amazon sent me.
That would definitely not be a replacement for my deadbolt. I looked at the one from China and since 9/10 of everything is coming from China these days frankly didn't look too bad
how bad is the rotor?
John C1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:
Found the button, was the parking brake?
One of those two brakes.
Forgot which one
how bad is the rotor?
96 EVOAh, your engine brake!
Nope, that's not going to damage your brake rotors!
how bad is the rotor?
John C1 hour ago, Ivan K said:
Your picture of the crack is on steer axle, right? The switch you are mentioning is a Jake switch? That would not be a cause of your crack.
Yes.
2 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:
Ah, your engine brake!
Nope, that's not going to damage your brake rotors!
OK, then it must be the previous owner abuse the brake then!
how bad is the rotor?
BenjaminThe engine brake didn't directly cause the cracks, it doesn't use the wheel end brakes at all. It's not even that bad of abuse that caused the the cracks either, if they were overheated the rotors would be blue and the pads would show it also. Those stress cracks are caused by quickly heating up cool brake rotors or drums, like coasting down a hill with the engine brake and then using the brakes to slow way down. Applying the brakes at the top of the hill to slow down, then periodically all the way down will prevent those stress cracks.
Entry Door Will Not Open - Top Latch is not releasing
96 EVO7 hours ago, timaz996 said:
Good news! I got locked out of my rig in 2018 because the electric solenoid would not unlock the door. I only use the dead bolt to lock it now.
Probably a good idea!
I had my baggage door electric actuators melt down (luckily unlocked position).
When these seize up, your not going to 'overpower' them with a key!
how bad is the rotor?
John C31 minutes ago, Benjamin said:
The engine brake didn't directly cause the cracks, it doesn't use the wheel end brakes at all. It's not even that bad of abuse that caused the the cracks either, if they were overheated the rotors would be blue and the pads would show it also. Those stress cracks are caused by quickly heating up cool brake rotors or drums, like coasting down a hill with the engine brake and then using the brakes to slow way down. Applying the brakes at the top of the hill to slow down, then periodically all the way down will prevent those stress cracks.
Then it must be bad luck for me then
I wonder what is the percentage of 2007 young coach have this kind of crack(I mean the big one)
Acceptable pressure drop when testing a charge air cooler?
joefromperryI'm replacing the leaking radiator on my 2003 Signature, but before I put it all back together, I want to check the charge air cooler. To be clear, when driving the coach the boost pressure was easily up to 30, so I'm pretty sure all is okay. I'll be closing off one 4" end of the cooler, and putting a tester with a gauge and air fitting on the other end. Everything I read says these coolers are not air-tight, nor do they need to be. So I'm asking those of you who have specific knowledge of this, if I take the pressure to 10-15 psi, how rapid of a pressure drop is acceptable? I've seen in more than one place that a drop of 1 psi every couple of seconds is to be expected. I'm thinking it would be acceptable if it builds/holds any pressure at all. I'll have my handy spray bottle of dish soap and water to help find any big problems. Thanks in advance for your help.
Close call !
HappycarzEven Amazon can let counterfeit filters in via their marketplace sellers.
I just stopped by and purchasedan expensive Fleetguard LF9009 oil filter and an Allison transmission filter set at FleetPride. I paid dearly for them, but cheaper in the long run. I rather be safe than sorry.
Acceptable pressure drop when testing a charge air cooler?
timaz996I would truly want no leakage in the charger cooler to be accepted especially at low pressure as 15 psi. When you have leakage on the blue side of your engine, it drives the exhaust temperatures very high. I also recommend anyone with a turbocharged diesel to have a pyrometer or EGT gauge to make sure that they are not running a high exhaust temperature. My banks system on my little 8.3 routinely makes 35 pounds of boost when pulling a grade. So as you have said you have a boost gage I would hope that you also have a parameter , or have plans to add one. I had an air cooler leak. , or have plans to add one. My bank system uses the pyrometer to protect the engine in the event of high exhaust temperature.
New Downloads
CareFree One Touch Awning Manual
Russ RThe manual for CareFree One Touch Awning
1997 Monaco Dynasty Brochure
Frank McElroy1997 Monaco Dynasty Sales Brochure.
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