Finding the newest barbecue joint in Fort Worth can be a challenge. Fort Worth BBQ Company took over what had been the second oldest spot in town when Bailey’s Bar-B-Que sold after 93 years in business. Chris Magallanes and Ernest Morales, owners of our current tenth best barbecue joint in the state, Panther City BBQ, bought the place. They quickly reopened March 1, but they’re still waiting on a sign to make the arrival more official. The first sign fabricator fell through, so the drawn-out permitting process with the city had to begin anew. For now, the old Bailey’s sign remains, but walk through the door and you’ll see that plenty has changed inside.
The last time I wrote in detail about Bailey’s Bar-B-Que, Brenda Phifer was at the helm. She retired a few years ago, but until the sale, little had changed on the menu or in the smoking methods. Two gas-assisted cabinet smokers sat in the pit room when the Panther City team took over. They cleaned them up well, and planned to give them a go. When Morales came in on a Monday morning to fire them up, he cracked the door, turned on the gas, and knelt down to flick his lighter. Propane quickly built up in the firebox. “It exploded,” knocking him backward, Morales said. He had a knot on the top of his head where the door hit it. “That was the barbecue gods saying, ‘Ernie you never used gas before, and you’re not going to start now,’ ” he joked.
Those cabinet smokers are now for sale—at a low price, because they’d like to make room for an Oyler rotisserie in the pit room. For now, they’re smoking the meats on the offset smokers at Panther City BBQ, and hauling them to Fort Worth BBQ Company every weekday morning. (They’ve maintained Bailey’s hours: 10:30–2:30 on weekdays only.)
After the ownership change, Magallanes and Morales welcomed the existing Bailey’s staff to stay, and offered them all a raise. With the change in smokers, an insistence in not serving yesterday’s barbecue, and the elimination of the microwave as a cooking appliance, they had some defections. The former pitmaster and his wife left two weeks after the change in ownership. Jeanette Reeves is the only employee who remains from the previous staff. She didn’t eat barbecue before she started last year, and still doesn’t. “I know a lot of people by name,” Reeves said, noting the prevalence of repeat customers.
Magallanes said they’ve had plenty of well-wishers, but also recalled a few customers unhappy with the changes. “People come in without planning to buy anything just to tell us they hope we fail,” he said. Some complain about how the prices have risen, but Magallanes pointed out that the rent at Bailey’s hadn’t gone up since 1987. It doubled when they took over in March.
Instead of a small and large brisket sandwich for $7 and $9 respectively, they offer just a large, chopped or sliced, for $11. That’s $3 cheaper than at Panther City BBQ. A thick slice of smoked bologna on a toasted bun is the best deal at $7. Load it up with pickles, onion, sweet relish, and barbecue sauce from the communal condiment table in the center that was a mainstay at Bailey’s. A big baked potato stuffed with butter, cheese, sour cream, and chopped barbecue is quite filling for $11. They’ve also added the option of brisket-topped elotes, a dish with its own fan base at Panther City BBQ.
Replacing a legendary joint is a challenge for reasons that go beyond nostalgia. Much of the existing clientele will chastise any changes, especially in the prices, but the aim was to keep the Bailey’s atmosphere while improving the barbecue quality. With that goal, making items less expensive wasn’t possible, but they’ve tried to find ways to keep the food affordable. Rather than using prime grade briskets seasoned with multiple rubs, the team at Fort Worth BBQ Company is using less expensive choice grade briskets and a simpler seasoning of just salt and black pepper. The ribs come dry, not glazed with sauce, and instead of housemade sausage, they found links made by Holy Smoked Sausage out of Waco. It’s still solid barbecue, but not as good as you’ll get down at Panther City.
Magallanes said he hopes to attract new customers in downtown Fort Worth and win back those loyal Bailey’s customers. They’re now serving the goods to impress some of that potential business at Fort Worth BBQ Company, but it’s hard to convince folks you’re doing something new when the same Bailey’s name is above the door. Hopefully the confusion will soon be alleviated once a new sign goes up. Then they can announce to Fort Worth that there’s a new barbecue option in town from a homegrown brand. Fort Worth BBQ Company might not have a decades-long history, but still has an impressive barbecue resume.
Fort Worth BBQ Company
826 Taylor St, Fort Worth
Phone: 817-335-7469
Hours:Monday–Friday 10:30–2:30
Pitmasters:Chris Magallanes and Ernest Morales
Method:Oak in an offset smoker
Year opened:2024
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